ST EMILION

I started my look at St Emilion 2010 at the very top. Namely Chateau Cheval Blanc…my first visit to this Right Bank legend. It immediately set an incredibly high standard and the wine was by far the best wine I tasted all day. Fresh and forceful, it glistened in the glass. Lush in appearance and physicality, I found it an utterly compelling experience. The stand out fact about 2010 Cheval Blanc is the high proportion of Cabernet Franc in the blend (56%!). This is always key component here, but I think the fact that they used so much this year tells us that 2010 Merlot was a much harder beast to tame. Other St Emilion's don't have that luxury, being predominately Merlot estates and this factor significantly played out during the rest of the day's tasting.

Some I loved & others were just too massive & alcoholic to take on board for judgment. They were over extracted…roasted actually! I don't feel this means they are lost to us forever, but that they are just not much fun at the moment. I do accept that I have a relatively inexperienced barrel sample palate and if I had been doing it for 20 years already, I would perhaps be able to make a wiser call. However, to me, it does feel that some of the Right Banks are becoming a tad fortified & New Worldy and that's not what I remember about St Emilion when I first got into it! I actually love big wines too, but only if they are well balanced.

The weird thing is that some Merlot heavy Chateau made absolutely beautiful, fresh, airy, wines in 2010! I couldn't really feel the higher alcohol as much. One such was Cheval Blanc prodigy, Ch Tour du Pin. 85% Merlot, fresh,13.5% alcohol that felt OK. Big finish that left a lovely aftertaste for a good 30 secs. I liked Ch Clos de L'Oratiore too. 95% Merlot but lightly done. Deep crimson, round, opulent, fresh as a daisy. A TBC fave. Give it 6-7 years, it will be a buttery, home treat! Ch Angelus I couldn't pick up too much on the nose. It was pretty tarry in the mouth but the pedigree is there & the winemaker really knows what he's doing here. Not to worry. I was worried about Beau Sejour Becot…pretty monstery IMO! I'll stick with previous vintages for now (still some 02 left…drinking well!). Ch Berliquet was prettier. Some silk in the tannin and a pleasant finish. Ch Canon La Gaffeliere was also nice, jammy & sweet but I'd probably stick with Clos Oratoire (same winemaker!). Cap du Moulin? My expansive tasting note reads 'Non!' Must have liked it then! Ch Figeac was much better. Black cherry, classy tannin, nice finish…too expensive! Clos Fourtet also performed well…"Clos Fourtet Rocks…But Gently!!" I've nicked that from a Val Donican LP I saw in a record shop once! Franc Mayne worked and may well be a bargain. Ch Grand Mayne…TBC favourite…it pains me to say it, but I wasn't impressed this year. Over egged, over ripe, overdone and over there for a couple of years more to settle, thank the Lord! I was somehow expecting La Dominique to follow suit with that (another TBC 09 pick) but, in complete contrast, this really overachieved again. Loads of fruit, sumptuous cassis, kirsch nose, plush tannin & a great finish that makes you want to have another sip. Encore un fois!

So what of Ch Troplong Mondot? One word…Marmite! That's perhaps unfairly detrimental as the wine is very well balanced but hold on to the dining table folks. I do respect the fact that this is what they do here & they do it again & again to a high standard (try the 04 I have at £56DP? I make you good price, non?). Pavie Macquin was larger than life too, but with more immediate fruity charm. I'd really like an allocation of this wine but not so much as a sniff as yet. They have a touch more Cabernet Franc to play with…perhaps a good, late ripening, option to have with global warming? So all in all, a mixed bag but one can really delve around and find a tigers eye! A few sugilite's in Pomerol too…

POMEROL

It's always loads of fun tasting in Pomerol. Not that it's a beautiful appellation (a few boring fields). They just make such attractive wine here…plumy, jammy, sweeter & prettier than anywhere else in Bordeaux. Even in barrel they are quite forward & I remember last year thinking that I could have happily drunk a glass or two with the evening's dinner. I'm not sure I'd wish to do that with the 2010's but they do seem to have been more successful with V ripe Merlot in Pomerol, than in St Emilion. They just seemed a tad fresher and lighter. That may be the result of a good balancing act, rather than less alcohol. Ch Clinet danced to a robust tune. Very impressive in the mouth with plenty of dark cherry and cassis on the nose. A black crimson tide hugging the glass. Good stuff thou nos! Ch Gazin was a real success. Sweet fruit, natural vivacious charm. I just think they over egged the price last year. I used to love championing it when it was on the rise. It's arrived now & behaves like a popstar locked away in a dressing room. We have to pay a lot for an interview! Oh well. Ch La Conseillante plays the loudest concerto so far. To start with, it looks fabulous, glistening in the glass with a young dark, bluey purple swirl. It's not a light wine by any means, but could be a serious aged Pomerol legend in the future. It's all there. Ch Croix de Gay again made a charmer in 2010. One with more weight than 09, which I loved & bought & sold heavily. It will take longer to get to the table so I will perhaps stick with the 09. It's amazing value though so do buy one or the other, if you haven't already. Similarly with Ch La Pointe, our hosts at the UGC Pomerol tasting (decent lunch served with the gorgeous 05!). I did like it again but I think the 09 takes it by a whisker. I will buy when I'm out of the previous vintage though. It has plenty of time to develop. It's more savoury in 2010, with a welcoming richness. Big finish. Petit Village has a touch of espresso about the nose & vigorous swirling released kirsch liqueur & fresh plum pudding. Ch Rouget, TBC fave, was very large, with a lot of oak on it. I need to taste again as I'm not sure about it yet. It's certainly impressive but I felt a bit like I was back in St Emilion. I have faith in this estate though so fingers crossed. Chateau Nenin was pretty much in the same vein but I don't have the allegiance!

I'm really gutted that I didn't get to try my flagship Pomerol, Vieux Chateau Certan. They didn't show it at La Pointe & we didn't have an appointment. I convinced my fellow travellers that, being in the area, we just needed to hammer on the door at the Chateau and demand admittance. However, on giving this a try, the shutters remained firmly FERMEE! A pity, as I did hear that it could well be the wine of the vintage. Perhaps that's why they can't afford to serve it to all & sundry wanting a glass. Thankfully Jancis R, Neil M & Robert P are all suitably regal to get a go…as I write Jancis has already given it a huge mark for a barrel sample. I'm not allowed to publish that online, though the great lady has given me permission to use her scores & TN's in my emails. I'm hoping the negoce uphold my allocation.

So what of Chateau Petrus?? No idea, but a nice gentleman told me that, as a 'Foire aux Vins' special, they will exclusively release it through Carrefour, Libourne this year at €2 a glass, direct from the barrel tap or €1.50 with a rotisserie poulet purchase. I do enjoy a roasted fowl…