St Julien

South of Pauillac, but still snuggled up to the Gironde estuary lies the charming AC of St Julien. Home of some key, premier Clarets. It's not a large AC but certainly crammed full with Medocain jewels. I started at Ch Beychevelle which immediately set a high benchmark. I found this to be a very excotic and sensual wine this year. I preferred it to the 09 but, once again, this will take longer to come round. Very high toned. It's also becoming really popular with the investors which will take it off my table damn it! The UGC host Branaire Ducru I felt was just a notch below the Beychevelle. More emphasis on the fruit here, which charmed, but felt a teensy bit 'bomby'. I couldn't quite make a call where it would go in development but with this pedigree there really isn't much to worry about. BDX lovers know & trust this terroir. Gruaud Larose was stunning again in 2010, 14% alcohol but you don't feel it. Very nicely balanced & likely to be totally amazing in 15-20 years. I'm sorely tempted to buy. Ch Lagrange, the largest St Julien estate (more wine to go round!) have also made a sumptuous fine wine. High in tannin & acidity but no masking of the fruit at all. I'm awaiting the price eagerly as my desire to own is high!

Onto my personal favourites the Barton twins. The Leoville Barton is incredible wine. Quite extracted due to thicker Cabernet skins but it so beautifully balanced with a nose that reveals kirsch and cassis liqueurs as well as graphite, humidor wood and fresh berrys. On asking for a few more cases this year, Lilian Barton tells me that they made less than in 2009 which makes that impossible (I had to try!) but the Langoa Barton is only a small notch behind so I'm probably going to get some of that for myself at approx half the price! The Langoa has a touch more Cabernet Franc mixed in with the Cabernet & Merlot which I thought gave it a fresher tone. It's pure & refined & (unusually) slightly more forward than the Leoville for probable earlier drinking. In no way is this like a second wine though. It's very much a fine Grand Vin & would be a worthy addition to any cellar.

The Leoville Poyferre was once again on fire in 2010. My favourite of all the top St Juliens. It's just so plush!! Silky smooth cashmere tannins, gorgeous mouthfeel, massive finish. One of the finest top 3 examples of St Julien I've ever tasted…of course it's youth has to be taken into account. It won't be cheap, but it will be a legend IMO. For my own cellar, I'll probably go for the Moulin Riche (2^nd wine) which I also marked way over 17. If this is £150-£200, it's so worth it from the same terroir by folk at the very top of their game. The Poyferre actually outshone the Leoville Las Cases for me. Don't think the Las Cases isn't super exquisite too though. It's also a harmonious success but for me just didn't quite display the jaw dropping 'wow factor' at this stage. RP will prob give it 98-100 though. 

I would also like to make a strong case for owning the 2010 Chateau Talbot. This was the best Talbot I've ever tasted. It's so hard to stand out when pretty much every wine is stunning (like in St Julien) but, though it was the last wine I tasted, it did manage to do that. Better than 09, profoundly elegant and superfine. I may just have to pay up for it if it's around £400 a case. I could pick different characteristics like nettle, forest floor as well as the cherry/blackcurrants etc. I'm very likely to do that again for Chateau Gloria too. This was very attractive Claret that will come round quicker than the big wines above IMO. The fruit was very pronounced on the nose, plenty of fine tannin & a hearty finish. As good as 09, which was awesome & sold well at TBC. The only St Juilen I was a bit disappointed with was the St Pierre. I loved it last year so I again had high expectations. It felt a tad over egged to me though. I try not to let disappointments cloud my opinion for ever though…there is so much development to go for these wines and there must be a fair bit of sample variation. Thankfully I'll get another look in May.

Margaux

Margaux rocks big time in 2010. Some very big hitters, but not in style. The wines are beautifully elegant, poised, classic and violety in character. I've been feeling recently that, although always impressive, the region has perhaps been losing some it it's typicality. With another good set of fruit in the winery they've really made beautiful MARGAUX again. Silky, sexy, buttery, voilety finery! The Chateau Margaux itself once again rules the roost. Oh boy is this great! Very Cab Sav heavy…90%, but very supple for it. It's not over robust. Iodine, grapite, herbs, fresh laundry on the nose, inky black/purple in appearance, 13.5% alcohol. The purest expression possible of the vintage. I was expecting it to be heavier in the mouth but no…gorgeous to the core! We tasted it in the cooperage where they made 100% new oak used. See pic! It should also be pointed out that they are really pushing the quality of the Pavillon Rouge (2^nd Wine) this year. 12-13K cases only…60% less than 04. This means they have declassified a lot of fruit to the new third and forth wine. The latter will be sold in bulk to negociants. I would really like to get a slice of that to sell at £15 a bottle! No idea what it will cost really. The Pavillon Rouge I know will be more expensive than 09 because of the increased attention given to it. Grab some if you can!

Now with my feet back on the ground I was very glad to see that TBC fave Ch Angludet was again fabulous & it's likely to be a bargain if anywhere near last years price. It is different to the 09 though. The nose seems almost too rustic at first but then this turns into licorice, leather, cassis with a decent swirl in the glass. The mouthfeel is very pleasant & likable for such a young wine. A class finish caps it all off. I immediately started begging Sichel for more wine than last year! It's a key brand for TBC for a good reason: stunning wine at a very reasonable price. Great value Margaux that ages well. The 79 I drank before the tastings proved that beyond question. I'm just worried that all the other merchants will be after it big time! Still, I'm in reasonable shape to get some I think.

Ch Brane Cantenac really excelled as well. It used to be a Second Growth that was outshone by the 'Super Seconds' This year it's up there in quality but I doubt will be as expensive as the Leo P's etc. Still not cheap though! Dauzac offered up a real top class effort too and will be much cheaper than a super second. Not my top bargain Margaux but in the ballpark! Rich Margaux that has that exploding fruit in the mouth and considerable (but classy) tannin. Du Tertre was lighter in tannin and slightly sweeter in the mouth. I can't get enough of this Chateau and it's still in my drinking price range thank heavens. "I'll be back" as Arnie said! Sister Chateau Giscours was for me just a smidge better last year in 2009. It's still a damsony, cherry liqueured treat though. Just with more tannin.

I spent a whole evening at Chateau Kirwan, tasting lots & lots of back vintages as well as the 2010. The 2010 is IMO the best they've ever made. It's stunning, individual and perfectly balanced with some of the best grainy tannins I tasted all day. I always been a fan, but the 2010 is special. Since 2007 Phillipe Defaut moved from being director at Ch Palmer to Kirwan and we have his expertise to thank. Well done sir…it won the crowd too and converted a few previous non-believers.

One Margaux that I'm considering buying for TBC for the first time this year is Ch Marquis de Terme. Another case of them making the best ever wine, but not being able to charge too much for it (yet!). They've invested a lot of money to get to this point and it really stands up with the big boys like Lascombes etc. I actually marked it better than Lascombes. Another plush Margaux. Quite ionic on the nose with tobacco & spices showing. I loved the mouthfeel equally on the two different occasions I tried it. Quite a wow factor about this wine. Jancis Robinson calls it 'racey'. I concur! Sub £250 a case & it'll be well worth it. Monbrison could be a goer too. Vanillary & fruity and more forward than the rest. That will definitely be sub £250.

At Chateau Palmer I was expecting something on the lines of Ch Margaux but felt it was a bit more behind than in 09. Oddly they used more tricky Merlot than Cabernet which made for lushness but perhaps a hint of hotter tannin. Don't get me wrong…it's exceptional wine but if I couldn't personally afford the amazing 2009 which truly knocked me for 6, I'm less likely to dig deep(er?) for the 2010!

Alter Ego may just be an option though, 14.6 alcohol for Palmer, 14.4 for the Alter Ego...ahem!

Other contenders include Deyrem Valentin…brilliant but I'm very happy with my 04's for drinking at the moment. Prieure Lichine…another best ever candidate. Desmirail, nice sexy wine. If I must mention disappointments it was with Malescot St Expury (ouch!) and Cantenac Brown (double ouch!). Again, I'm not calling it off for these wines forever though. Just a bit hot & tannic and unbalanced at this stage.

Whatever your budget, there should be something for you in Margaux 2010. It's certainly singing a very eloquent tune!