At the end of March TBC headed off to Bordeaux to sample the brand new 2009 vintage, an infant that had barely become 'wine'. As is the great tradition, the Chateau poured barrel samples of their beloved new born to a staggering amount of wine traders, journalists and lucky (well healed!) collectors tagging along. This was TBC's first trip to Bordeaux En Primeur in a trade capacity, and I felt a real pang of pride as I landed at Merignac airport, knowing that at 9am the next morning I had an appointment at Chateau Mouton Rothschild to taste the Grand Vin and associated Chateau. At 9.30 I would be at Montrose, 10 at Cos D'Estournel, 10.30 Lynch Bages, 11.00 Duhart Milon etc. Being a long-term fan of these wines, and having visited as a tourist, it was truly mind blowing to be ushered off the tourist trail and into the vat & tasting rooms. Inside, the winemakers and owners were hovering around answering questions. I had to try very hard not to (a) act like a beaming numpty and (b) let my excitement cloud my judgment of the wines.

Though I've been drinking Bordeaux a while, I have a relatively inexperienced palate of barrel samples. This will be my third year of tasting them in large amounts, one after the other. (I'd previously tasted the 07's & 08's in the UK). It's no mean feat to get right but I don't shy away from my greenness. I try to rejoice in the exhilaration I feel as a taster with an eager, unpolished palate for the new wines. I often muse that it's beneficial to possess a palate closer to that of the general public than to my esteemed, highly knowledgeable merchant counterparts! One chap I met had been attending since 1962. Well 2009 was my 1962! However, I was still aware that, after making my own assessment, I needed to glean as much as possible from the more experienced tasters and take advantage of the availability of the gifted professionals who made the wine. The latter may have a business incentive to be positive about their results, but loads can still be learnt from them - blend, picking times, successful grape varieties, terroir variation, alcohol level etc.  There's a plethora of useful literature on hand to take away from each Chateau too. Furthermore, the wine trade are a highly enthusiastic (!) bunch of lunchers and procrastinators and by mooching around I was able to get a great cross section of opinion to consider on my return. This gave me a good feel for the general talking points of the vintage and also helped reveal the likely popularity of wines I  had identified to be on the TBC wishlist! There are limited numbers after all and in a strong vintage like 2009, demand was going to be off the charts for the stars of the show.

So who are the stars and crucially, are they worth shelling out for? Well firstly, though it was clear a few Chateau couldn't resist the temptation to over-egg the pudding, (perhaps they had too much of a good thing with the weather?) I drank totally delicious wines right across the board that week. The contrast with the last two vintages was obvious. The 07's were fun but weedy, the 08's were fun and sleek, the 09's are more serious - rich, ripe, powerful and lush with loads of fruit and tannins. Loads of everything really! Yes, some of them are a bit New Worldy but Bordeaux has proved it can produce ageworthy wines in good vintages time and time again. I'm therefore not too bothered about this, or the strength of some of the wines. I like big Clarets and I think the 09's will age better than say the 03's. However I was slightly put off with any tannins that turned bitter and dry on the finish. I like to be left thinking about fruit and a pleasant, cheeky, gentle smarting on the tongue - not a raspy, drying, sourness. A few wines had that affect me...oui oui …eeek...non! I have to say that these were mostly Merlot based wines on the right bank but it did happen on the left bank too. A couple of monsters there for sure but perhaps they will resolve themselves with time? All these wines will change a lot! Some clever wine makers expressed a wonderful restraint that I enjoyed. Mouton Rothschild was one compared to Lafite, which was a more robust animal. Both were exceptional.

It seems apparent that the later ripening Cabernet Sauvignon produced some stellar juice in 09 and that some of the Merlot was perhaps left on the vine too long. However it's way simple to call it as a left bank vintage because there's more Cabernet in the Medoc. Every Chateau makes it's own decisions as to when to pick and how to proceed with the fruit afterwards. Many Merlot based properties produced stellar juice too. In St Emilion, perhaps the most varied AC in terms of quality this year, I seriously loved Chateau Fleur Cardinale and La Dominique for example. The former probably was late picked but it still comes together beautifully. The latter was a juicy sweet treat but with added ageworthy backbone. I loved it, and will buy it though I like the 'modern' style. Also my old favourite Clos de L'Oratoire worked as per usual in a more restrained buttery way. I rely on this guy to deliver every year and as usual he didn't let me down (sorry I could have made 'he' a 'she' but no need…couldn't say that of some wines!) Figeac made an outstanding 2009. They use more Cabernet than nearly all others in St Emilion so it's not surprising that they've delivered. The trouble is I just can't afford it most years so there's no way that will change now! Troplong Mondot likewise. This was  a MASSIVE wine and will doubtless be accused of over-doing it (14.5% alcohol...wahey!) However it is expertly crafted and will wow a lot of people who are prepared to run with it…but too pricey pour moi!

Pomerol was shown in a delightful smaller UGC tasting at Chateau Gazin and despite arriving at 4pm having tasted all day, I stayed for ages, happily jotting away until doors! That's a very good sign I think. The Petrus, Vieux Chateau Certan's and Lafleurs are exceptional again this year and I will be again be trying to procure quantities of VCC if at all possible (Petrus…forget it!). La Conseillante was not quite what I was expecting though. I just couldn't get that much from it where as it usually soars away out of the door! Perhaps I tasted an off bottle? It did have a lovely light & shiny texture. Jury out for now. The home team Gazin again produced a smoky, rich, glyceriny Claret with the fruit all present and correct. I'll be in the queue for that. There were a couple of great over achievers that took me by surprise though. Firstly La Croix de Gay had an enjoyable cherry liqueur and plumy nose and a gorgeous mouthfeel. Not a huge finish but I would have happily taken a bottle away for my evening meal! My big winner in terms of a Chateau moving forward was Ch La Pointe. I've not been overly taken with this in the past but the 09 clearly states that either I've been missing something or that they've just made the best wine in their history! My tasting notes read..."Trixy!!...Pure velvet charmer, sweet and gentle & dark and long. What's going on???" I can't wait to give this a run out in bottle actually and it's usually very well priced! Sssshhhhh!!

Leaving joyous Pomerol and heading to Medocain spires I found some incredible Left Bank triumphs. I started in Margaux and it soon became apparent that the Chateau were on song at all levels. At the top end Chateau Margaux itself was truffly and complex, with the second wine Pavillon Rouge also showing beautifully. I wasn't too taken with the Pavillon Blanc though as it was already quite concentrated and heady. With lots of oak yet to be added I'm not sure that it won't end up too overbearing. Then onto Chateau Palmer which was simply stunning. Very tannic but the tannins were such high quality. They were so proud of it, comparing it to the 2000. My tasting notes commence with "Shock & awe..." before many other superlatives and 19+ points. Palmer won't be cheap though so I wondered if Alter Ego might be a canny purchase this year? This is also an exceptionally fine wine that received 17.5 points from me. Very racy. Further down the Grand Vin scale the stand out wines were Ch Malescot St Expury and Ch Giscours. Everyone seemed to love the Malescot so I hope the Chateau don't hike the price on the back of that. If so, I'd perhaps opt for Giscours or D'Issan over it. I was again smitten by Ch D'Angludet, which was long and round and pure. It will be a tad more expensive than the bargain of the century 2008 but still well worth owning. Ch Du Tertre was again its sexy self. I know where I am with this Chateau and it never lets me down. I therefore don't turn away when a certain well known critic is non plussed by it. The 09 is creamy and vanilla endowed with some roasted nuts on the nose too. There were one or two slightly treacly Margaux's, which need to be watched rather than bought early, but on the whole the appellation, is on form in 09.

The St Julien's were also in fine fettle! Ch Branaire Ducru worked well but if it's up 20% in price (as I expect prices to be) I may wait it out. I had my first visit to Ch Leoville Las Cases whose Grand Vin was universally acclaimed by our tasting gang. It received 18.5 from me. What I also really liked about this tasting was the other Domaine Delon wines that were shown alongside Las Cases. The new second wine Petit Lion was a real success, made from younger vines with more Merlot than Cabernet. I think this could be a buy for sublime earlier drinking. Chateau Potensac from the Medoc was also shown to be making big leaps forward in quality. Again, an example of Merlot being used well on the left bank proving that it's not just a Cabernet vintage. Potensac was an interesting blend of 48% Merlot, 38% Cab Sav & 14% Cab Franc. I'm seriously considering this wine for TBC this year. Once again Ch Leoville Barton was expertly put together with Langoa Barton also doing well. You need time with these Chateau but I am young enough to purchase for drinking as well as selling on. I am in discussion with them about a small TBC allocation so I'll keep you posted on that.

I tasted the most of the St Estephe's at the UGC tasting at Chateau Batailley. However I was lucky enough to get into enhanced tastings at Ch Montrose and Ch Cos D'Estournel to get a proper handle on their wines. At the Chateau, there's more time, less people and the wines are presented with great ceremony! I loved the Montrose big time. It was sure footed & substantial but exceptionally fine. Hints of coffee & mocha, rich fruit, dark in colour. The best Montrose I've ever tasted. Cos, on the other hand, was the most controversial wine of the week. It was shown in the glamorous new Chai with darkened night club vibe with smart looking model-esq folk milling around. That's all well and good (they want to stand out & it works!) but they actually served the wines TOO COLD. I had to try and heat mine up to pick out the aromas and flavours. When I did I found Cos to be something of a monster at this stage. It was a massive wine that sadly went bitter on the finish. I will be very interested to see how time will work on this wine though. They know what they are doing at Cos and I admit I may be wrong…but I can't get excited about recommending it to others at this stage.  Further down the pack in St Estephe the big winner for me was Les Ormes de Pez. Again, perhaps the best wine they've ever made there. It's big and plentiful but with a classy mouthfeel. This made my wishlist. Lafon Rochet was good too. A usual favourite of mine but I needed to taste it twice to understand the wine. It seemed a little over extracted at first but I found the fruit the second time. Filling your mouth 100's of times with young tannic wine can take its toll! I noted that Phelan Segur were also continuing their recent run of good form.  

Perhaps it could be argued that the Pauillac was the winner in the left bank by the smallest of muzzels! Lafite soared and didn't leave me for hours! Mouton charmed in a more restrained way. Duhart Milon & Clerc Milon immediately made my wishlist. Lynch Bages was finesse personified and both the Pichons were performing at the top of their game. I actually preferred the gamey Lalande to the sophisticated Baron but I don't think the others in my gang quite agreed. There's not much in it anyway! Haut Bages Liberal once again looked like it could be the bargain of Pauillac with Pibran not far behind. I've never bought Pibran before but perhaps this may be the year to start? I'm ashamed to say that I didn't taste Pontet Canet. I was on limited time, and haven't as yet managed to secure an allocation, so I opted to spend more time with the lower end Pauillac's. The other merchants who went to PC were very impressed though. I shall certainly be trying to buy some but it may well have left the building in terms of price again...I live in hope! I have a secret back up plan for buying PC at a good price when it's bottled anyway! I also liked Chateau Batailley as per usual.

So it seems that 2009 has a lot of names to remember but some to be careful of at this stage. Just a few more to mention now, though I will be publishing full tasting notes of the wines I'm successful in buying for TBC. Domaine de Chevalier in the Graves really rocked again this year. My favourite in the appellation though Haut Bailly is excellent too. Finally, Chateau Poujeaux in Moulis should be mentioned in despatches. When the Bordelaise get over excited and start hiking prices, over performing Chateau like this are a godsend. They won't sell if they price too high and it's really good wine to own! It should remain well sub £200 a case and there's plenty to love in the Poujeaux 09. Ripe and plentiful with hints of mint and vanilla pods. Scrummy!

I think long and hard at what will be the right brands to recommend and follow for my small, but much loved business! Buying En Primeur is heaps of fun and can be worth doing for two reasons. Firstly, in strong vintages like 2009, lots of people want to secure the best stuff for their cellars.  These high demand wines are extremely unlikely to remain at release price level throughout their lifetime. Even when they are expensive, like in 2005, I watched them rising in value and I was even able to start a business on some of my 05 purchases (which I bought from UK merchants, not from La Place de Bordeaux) As I write this, I'm unaware of pricing but I'm expecting the Bordelais to price under 2005 level. They know the UK-Euro interest rate is harder than in 05 and they really need to keep their UK followers. The 09's will not all go to Asia despite the hype. Secondly, buying En Primeur is a 100% guarantee of perfect provenance of the wines. The TBC 09's will be bottled and shipped in 2012 and then travel straight from Bordeaux into professional UK storage. Wine auctions are great fun and provide brilliant service for drinking and collecting wines. You may indeed be able to buy some 09's in 5 years time at auction, close to the release price level if you're very lucky! However, these are likely by this time to have been shifted around a fair bit and that's always an issue in the back of your mind. It's good to get into the habit of buying good wines, nice and early at the best possible price. It seems to be working for me anyway!

Although TBC is mainly aimed at encouraging physical engagement with Bordeaux, there's always the investment potential of buying into a great vintage. A friend of mine recently asked about buying some Bordeaux to stash away for the longterm. He had his new baby daughter's future college fees in mind. I would say that carefully selected 09's will be very good for this purpose (or something like it!), especially if you're planning to keep them for 18 years! They are likely to double in value way before then actually. With this in mind I am currently considering providing professional storage packages for TBC customers when their 08's, 09's etc arrive in the UK. If anyone is interested in this please ask me? If you are planning to sell the wines on, it is important that the 100% provenance remains intact…I can help with that!

That's all for now but keep checking back regularly to see how this exciting En Primeur campaign develops - I can't wait…!