St Estephe
This year's En primeur tasting for me started at Chateau Montrose, in the Northern Medoc St Estephe commune. Here, we were also treated to it's associated estate Tronquoy Lalande. The Montrose was a fabulous cassis & blueberry infused, dense wine with a long, long finish. More earthy than the St Julien's or Pauillac's but I love the way that St Estephe can deliver finesse & rustic charm together. I expected high alcohol but was quite pleased that it was only (!) 13.8. They have more terroir to play with here this year as they have 'moved in' on Ch Phelan Segur. If I'm honest though, I think the 09 just takes the 2010 though both are incredible wines. Similarly with the Tronquoy, I think the 09 just shaves it, though the days of it being a pleasant wee lower end wine are well & truly gone. It's a lovely wee version of the Montrose now.
I'm just not sure I want to wait while I can drink the 09 before! Phelan Segur itself is a 3rd success for them in a row…once more I'm happy with my 09 but if you didn't buy the 09, I'd advise buying one of either vintage.
Onto the infamous Cos D'Estournel next, where I wasn't the only one to massively prefer the 2010 to the 09. Last year I found it to be an over extracted monster, this year, they seem to have really excelled and made a beautifully balanced, elegant wine which will last decades but perhaps drink before the Montrose. Of the two big boy St Estephes, Cos takes the TBC prize this year. I also really enjoyed the Pagodes (2nd Wine) and unfortunately named 'La Goulee' (look...it's a Port!) which was opulent and fresh as opposed to last year's tarry beast! This is actually AC Medoc but made by Cos. I wonder if Chateau owner and general cool cat, Jean Guillaume Prats, took some of the (non Parker) criticism on board last year? What a great wine…will I buy the grand vin? Doubtful…but I'm sorely tempted! 
I also really enjoyed the Lafon Rochet and I may have to be resigned to actually paying for it this year! I refused to buy the 09 as it was such a price hike and I'm used to this Chateau being an 'under the radar' bargain, from class N Medoc terroir (btw for this reason I've just taken on some more 06 @ £200 per 12) . The 2010 is a serious contender though, perhaps better than 09. An enticing wine, again well balanced with some red fruits as well as black. Despite the tannin the mouthfeel was class & I gave it 17.3. I don't generally publish scores but breaking the rule here! Also, Les Ormes de Pez was delightful coming from the Lynch Bages stable. Sumptuous and V likey one of the bargains to buy. The 09 went well with TBC-ites & this is as good again. Strong contender if you can't afford the top wines. I'm afraid that I didn't sample Calon Segur or Capbern Gasqueton (did try the 08 which was ace) but I'm hoping to later on. The latter could be another bargain. I'd like to mention some other wines from this AC. The smokey Cos Labory stood out as fruitier, not without stature. I also earmarked it as a possible, price dependant purchase. I liked Le Crock as well but I really doubt that I'd be able to sell any with that name!! It that doesn't bother you, this is the very best I've ever tasted from them. Lilian Ladouys, is inferior to the 09 IMO. It's a nice camphor infused, semi-fine wine, but I only buy these early if I simply must have it. I'm more than happy with my cases of 09. The 2010 I'll seek out later. Don't let me stop you though! It'll be around £140.
Pauillac
So what of Pauillac 2010? Totally awesome that's what! Vying with Margaux for the top AC spot this year. St Julien might have something to say about that though. All 3 are excellent. There's so many of these wines that were great at all price levels. To start at the top, Lafite Rothschild once more sent my palate racing with a trio of uber fine Clarets; Lafite/Duhart/Carruades. The Lafite itself is so alive! The black fruit velvet crush explodes in the mouth with a finish that lasted all the way back to the van after the tasting. Perhaps the only time I'll taste it? On spotting proprietor Charles Chevalier watching us taste, naturally I took the opportunity to stuff a few fivers in his top pocket and with a chavvy wink said, '20 boxes'll see me right Chas!' Doubtless, he liked me a lot and will honour our gentlemen's agreement. The Carruades was slightly fruitier with mildly less tannin & acidity. It still has a vibrant cassis infused nose & palate but with more silk at this stage. 
The Duhart was richer again with a very dark purple hue. Well balanced…will be v expensive, but the modern Duharts are IMO better than all previous years I've tasted. I still can't believe I used to sell the 2001 @ £25 a bottle only a couple of years ago!
On to Mouton Rothschild, where once again I'm faced with a very top Claret but made in a different style. They wouldn't want to copy their old rival would they? 94% Cab Sav and once again, a slightly more restrained approach. The boss Herve Berland has a real touch of panache about him & so does his wine. It did need coaxing a bit, but soon, out popped gorgeous aromas of leather, cherry liquor, herbs with a plush tannic, graphitey palate to follow. I kind of think Mouton is more my kind of wine though perhaps Lafite is the ultimate example of Bdx Medoc finery. My underlined top tip was Petit Mouton which I totally loved this year. More forward but with huge globules of glycerine, cassis, fresh black fruit & minerals. I've asked! I immediately decided to again buy Clerc Milon too as long as they don't go insane with pricing…uuumm. I do usually get some & it is a key TBC brand. They've produced another stunner in 2010. Better than 2009 IMO. Buy Buy Buy but please be reasonable Monsieur. It's slightly more violety than the Mouton…an interesting blend of 50% Cab Sav with the rest being Merlot, Cab franc, Pet Verdot & Carmenere!! Like the sound of it? Try drinking it!
Next we travel to lowly, unknown, struggling, 5th Growth, Lynch Bages. Of course we all know this to be so far from the truth. Lynch Bages, though always popular with Claret fans, has literally gone ballistic on the secondary market in the last 6 months. It's not just because they are producing the best wines they've ever made. The brand has just clicked with the investment community & my days of affording it over a Sunday Roast are sadly long gone. Thankfully, I do get a small allocation of it at EP time, but this immediately sells out & I'm back to scratching around at auction for a bottle for myself if I'm lucky! The 2010 Lynch Bages doesn't let me down in the glass. This will be a supreme wine…in 15-20 years. Bluey purple, tannic, superfine, graphitey, black cherry, long, long finish. The Echo (2nd wine) didn't blow me away as much as Petit Mouton or Clerc Milon but who's quibbling? It's all good…and all gone. Oh…the LB Blanc 09 was marginally better than the 10 methinks. If you can't afford LB, try Ormes de Pez…same team, not that far behind in the glass.
Next up Ch Pontet Canet; Slight problem for me here in that I should have tasted it before the gorgeous lunch that M Tesseron so graciously put on for us! Fois Gras/Lentil terrine, Beef Bourguignon, incredible cheese course...(check it out folks!) all washed down with…wait for it…Pontet Canet 2000 in unlimited amounts, pud, coffee, more cheese for good measure. Heaven…I'm in heaven…satisfied sigh…now lets have a jolly old trot upstairs to taste the 2010 with Mr T himself! Wahey…hold onto the banister laddieboy! Actually I wasn't tipsy (I only had 2 small glasses honesht occiffer) but my palate had certainly gone into 'happy eating' mode and wasn't quite as pro as I've tried to train it. I did get reams of blackcurrant, raspberry, vanilla on the nose & a (seemingly) well balanced acidic, grainy tannic palate. I certainly did appreciate that PC is now 100% Biodynamic but doesn't choose to mention this on the label (why not?) I just found the finish a bit bitter. That'll be the expresso then! No matter…I'm sure the PC 2010 is amazing, will get high marks, will be uber expensive etc. Seeing as my tasting team were invited here for the first time, it's just possible that somewhere in the 81 hectares of prime Pauillac terroir, there might just be 2/3 vines with the words 'TBC' marked in the gravel betwixt! 
Hopefully it doesn't say 6th Tranche in brackets afterwards and in the office they have me down as failing the Adam & Eve/ ripe Pontet Canet 2000 temptation trial. Fingers crossed, no fivers in tweeded pockets required! Only time will tell.
I'm not done with Pauillac by a long chalk. It's so rich with great wine in 2010. This year, in my humble opinion Pichon wars were just won by Pichon Baron, though the Pichon Lalande was preferred by many around me. Last year it was the other way round. The Baron had a very compelling ionic nose backed up by oven-baked plums in sweet red wine (sorry that's what I wrote!). It was much fresher than stewed plums. Incredible mouthfeel, Big boy finish. Dark & foreboding. The Lalande was just a tad more feminine perhaps, which I usually prefer, but this time I was in a different mood. Both are on fire in 2010. Lalande - as good as 09, Baron- better. Ch Batailley worked it's magic too. I've always loved this wine but it's been so so good in the last 3 years. I'm praying they don't ruin our fun & price hike. If they do, thankfully there's a few reserves who are bang up for the job. .jpg)
Haut Bages Liberal has also become superb, but perhaps is getting pretentions of being in the rich team every year. Grand Puy Ducasse is a real contender to buy though. Bright, vanillary, herby, most definitely fine…winning here! And here's my top underdog tip…Ch Croizet-Bages. Often overlooked Pauillac 5th Growth. This could well be under £200 a case & for around that this could work for me. I like nice Pauillac at £20ish a bottle. It's never stood out for me before (I may have missed the 09 though) but this year I think I had my 'bargain radar' working pretty well in the bustling tasting room. Perhaps not quite as complex as the lofty towers but still some delightful, smokey fruit and correct (if not huge) tannic stucture. A lot of freshness, a fair amount of complexity, a bit less tannin, a bit less acid… for a lot less money. From quality terroir (I visited) the eye of TBC has been well & truly caught! There are always pleasurable choices in such a large wine region and thanks heaven for it.